Yves Saint Laurent would have turned 86 on Monday, August 1, 2022. A retrospective of the financial, but additionally stylistic and creative heritage of the genius designer who died in 2008, within the firm of the reference of vogue journalism in France, Loïc Prigent.
June 1, 2008. Along with the style world, it’s all of France that mourns the demise ofYves Saint Laurent, who died in his Paris residence of mind most cancers. The artistic genius, who could be 86 years outdated on August 1, 2022go away behind an enormous legacy : one model world well-known, artwork assortment spectacular, but additionally (and above all) a indelible imprint in vogue.
Just a few days after the demise of his companion, Pierre Berge entrusted to departure from Paris that was PACS with the creatorof which you should have shared life for 50 years. The regulation nonetheless didn’t enable the couple to marry. “We determined to succeed in a mutual settlement. It occurred at your home just lately.Then defined the businessman, who died in 2017. Pierre Bergé who inherits of her accomplice’s private fortune, in addition to the immense assortment of artwork, which they’ve amassed over the a long time, and which is able to enable them to take care of Monsieur Saint Laurent’s vogue heritage, such because the use that was known as for his workshop garments on Avenue Marcelau.
⋙ Pictures – In Yves Saint Laurent’s dressing room
Who inherits the Saint Laurent firm?
Re Yves Saint Laurent model, issues are somewhat completely different. In 2008, the Bergé-Saint Laurent couple nonetheless owned shares within the firm, however belongs to the group of François Pinault (Pinault-Printemps-Redoute group, renamed Kering in 2013). The couple created the couture and prêt-à-porter model in 1961. In 1972, they purchased the licensed product subsidiaries to revive order. so we discovered there YSL cigarettes and bathtub towels. That is after they grow to be thetheir very own bosses for the primary time.
Via inventory change operations, in 1993 the corporate handed below the banner of Elf-Sanofi Group, then the Pinault Group. There’s, subsequently, no no firm heritage to talk of after the demise of the creator. Yves Saint Laurent will design the ready-to-wear collections till 1998 and the high fashion collections till 2002 (the 12 months Saint Laurent’s high fashion ends).
What’s Saint Laurent’s vogue heritage?
Little fascinated by financial issues, it’s in his workshops that Yves Saint Laurent will construct essentially the most timeless a part of his heritage: his type. It’s made from references to the artwork world (the Mondrian costume, the 1966 pop artwork assortment, nods to Picasso, Matisse, Braque, Van Gogh…) andmales’s locker room loans (trench coat, go well with, tuxedo, safari jacket). Unpublished components for the time. However Saint Laurent’s vogue heritage is simply that.
“Yves Saint Laurent is a good colorist. Your colour mixtures are to die for”, reminds us Loïc Prigent, essentially the most pedagogic of French vogue journalists. “that is additionally an ideal vogue historian : there isn’t any interval that he doesn’t cite, to breed or sublimate him. From the robe to the Belle Époque, from Spain to Africa, from the Forties to Romanian folklore, each wardrobe conjures up her.”
However the Saint Laurent type is above all a revolution. “He’s the primary to make use of avenue vocabulary. he takes the leather-based jacket, reserved for motorcyclists who had a really dangerous picture on the time, and reproduced it like a crocodile for a wealthy clientele, who would by no means have considered carrying such a poorly regarded jacket. It is the well-known Chicago jacket that makes scandal“, explains vogue journalist Loïc Prigent. “It is onerous to think about that as we speak, nevertheless it’s an enormous breakthe concept that hyperstatutory vogue classes to be discovered from well-liked and utilitarian and menswear vogue.“
And this vogue heritage nonetheless does model DNA. It’s anticipated (see demand) by critics, prospects and followers of the model within the collections designed by Saint Laurent’s successors. And watch out for those that stray from it. if the work ofHedi Slimane (2012 to 2016) and Anthony Vaccarello (2016 to current), “porno-chic” makes an attempt to tom ford (2000-2004) didn’t go. “Tom Ford says he can very harsh letters from Pierre Bergé when he’s the pinnacle of the home“, reveals Loïc Prigent.
Nevertheless, you do not have to be a Saint Laurent stylist to be impressed by his genius. All creators declare this. “We all know your Yves Saint Laurent as we all know your Gabrielle Chanel : are characters, careers and pictures which are systematically hung in all temper boards of the creators”notes vogue knowledgeable Loïc Prigent for us.
Yves Saint Laurent, a nationwide heritage
If the Saint Laurent heritage stays so robust, it’s also as a result of the home created information earlier than all its opponents. “The home of Saint Laurent guards all of your designer sketches from scratch. Assortment letters, visitor room plans, all the pieces is systematically maintained. There’s an absolute and distinctive retention coverage in a French home”, is impressed by Loïc Prigent. “On the identical time, Givenchy is making all the pieces disappears on the finish of every season for worry of copying. Dior hopes to show 40 in 1987 to implement an institutional heritage coverage. At Saint Laurent, all the pieces is prepared for retrospectives because the early years. Pierre Bergé acted in unconditional admirer but additionally in chief curator. It is a tremendous shot.”
The Saint Laurent home can subsequently show the genius of its creator in any exhibition. To the purpose of offering in early 2022 concurrently six exhibitions in six completely different Parisian museums“Whendifferent homes don’t have anything left to witness its splendor“, highlights Loïc Prigent. Its treasured archives are managed by the Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent Basis, created in 2002. It’s as we speak “the last word heirloom mannequin for a vogue home“, based on Loïc Prigent
When in 2009 Pierre Bergé auctioned the paintings assortment by Yves Saint Laurent, the 373.5 million euros collected are shared between the Basis and HIV Analysis. A gesture that completes the transformation of Yves Saint Laurent’s materials heritage into heritage, but additionally humanist.
Photograph credit: SERGE BENHAMOU / BESTIMAGE